November 17, 2024, Sunday - Glacier Pio XI

November 17, 2024 – Sunday               Day 53 of this journey 

Glacier Pio XI, Patagonia, Chile 

Yesterday was a combination of sailing in the open ocean and then turning into the fjords around noon. We participated in a Rum Tasting in the afternoon.

3 different rums. We don't drink much rum,
so found it interesting.

Today, the plan was to visit the glacier named Pio XI. It was named for Pope Pius XI. It is also known as Brüggen Glacier and is the largest western outflow from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. Now about 66 km (41 mi) in length, it is the longest glacier in the southern hemisphere outside Antarctica. It covers about 700 square miles. 

But the Expedition Team wanted to put their toys in the water, including the submarine, and the water near the glacier is VERY cloudy with what is known as “rock flour”. (The pulverized rocks being ground by the movement of the glacier.) That is not good viewing conditions for the sub. The Team knows of a nearby arm that has better water conditions. So, we are stopping there first to play, then later in the afternoon, the ship will move to the glacier. 

We have a 10:00 am zodiac ride and a 4:00 pm Special Ops Boat ride. It is recommended to wear all the waterproof gear we’ve been given or lent. It takes almost 20 minutes to put on all the various layers. But we should be warm and dry. It has been raining off-and-on all day and the outdoor temperature is in the low 40s. 

There are 8 guests per zodiac and one Expedition Team Guide. First, she goes over the safety briefing with us then we head towards shore. We do see some sort of critter in the water but can’t tell whether it is a small seal, or a large otter. And of course, it doesn’t stick around for us to determine. After about 45 minutes, we head back to the ship, more than a little damp.

Just off the point in the center is where we saw some sort
of sea creature.

All those little black dots just above the water are
mussels. Tiny tiny mussels.

In the lower right, there is a black dot. That is one of our
zodiacs zipping along.

At 4:00 pm, we are suited back up in the various layers and report to the gathering area for the SOBs. These boats are rather amazing. They were built in Finland and were initially designed for water-based military special operations teams. They are designed to be dropped into the water by helicopter - fully loaded with the special ops teams and equipment. For Viking there are a few alterations, each seat has its own shock absorber, and the Viking boats have skylights. It will hold 12 guests, a pilot and an Expedition Team guide. They are very very comfortable.

This is what we will be wearing anytime we go out
on a zodiac or the Special Ops Boat.
The jacket was included in our fare for the trip.
The pants and boots are on loan.

 

Special Ops Boat.

After zipping around the area for a while, we head back to the ship. After a quick survey and okay from the guests, our pilot takes off and does a bit of quick maneuvering. What fun! And sooo stable. Nobody was thrown around at all. Seeing our ship in the distance with the mountains behind gave a little perspective to the vastness of this region.

As we got back aboard, we headed for the bar. We didn’t bother going back to the room to get out of our extra gear. That ride deserves a celebratory toast. While enjoying our toddy, the ship begins to head for the Pio XI glacier. The Captain thinks we’ll be there around 7:00 - 7:30 pm. Sunset is around 9:30 pm, so we’ve got time.

On the way to Pio XI, we spot another rainbow. A good omen.

Just after dinner.

Just as we finish dinner, we stepped outside to see what we could see. The glacier is coming up right in front of us – one more WOW for the books. 

But the WOW got even better. The Captain brought the ship to a halt as close to the glacier as he felt he could get. Most of the guests were gathered either on the bow (Deck 3) or in front of the Explorers Lounge (Deck 4.) Wait staff was passing out glasses of wine. The sun was playing peek-a-boo, highlighting different areas of the glacier. The colors were stunning. Pristine white to deep turquoise. With streaks of black that show the rock debris that is embedded in the ice. 

Then we heard what sounded like a rifle shot. It’s the glacier! Bits and pieces drop off the face. Then a huge chunk collapsed into the water, sending a small tsunami towards us. We never even felt it when it got to the ship. Lots of ice floating in the water. Bigger chunks popping up here and there. We spent over an hour watching the glacier before the ship had to head for our next stop.  And these are just a few of the photos we took.

That brown smudge in the middle is the plume of water
that erupts after a piece of ice falls off the glacier.
For those that don't know the term, it is calving.

The tsunami. Just a few inches high, but we are also quite a way
from the face of the glacier.

This piece of ice

Part of our time at the glacier we spent in our room with our window lowered. It was so quiet compared to being on the Bow with other passengers. It was just us, yet we could see about half the glacier and listen to it crack and groan. And even though it was quite cool outside, we did not get cool in our room. Shows us we should be able to do this going forward when the views warrant.

What Russ is leaning on is a shelf that is actually part of the window.
The upper half of the window slides down in front of the lower
portion. The shelf is chest high for us.

And a fantastic sunset to end a great day!