October 16, 2024 - Louisbourg, Nova Scotia - Wednesday

October 16, 2024 – Wednesday                    Day 21 of this journey 

Louisbourg, Nova Scotia 

Another night of rolling seas. A little easier as we had following seas and because we left Cap Aux Meules a few hours earlier than planned, we were able to sail at a lower speed. 

The Captain maneuvered us into the harbor at Louisbourg. Very quickly the tenders are lowered, and they are ready to start taking people ashore. We were on the first tender as our scheduled “included” tour is to start at 9:00 am. We are loaded on to the bus and head for the picturesque lighthouse. This is a modern lighthouse, but it sits on the site of Canada’s first lighthouse which was built in 1734.

Rugged Coastline

Lighthouse with Octantis in the background

The harbor had been used by European mariners since at least the 1590s, when it was known as “English Port”. 

The original settlement was founded in 1713. Subsequently, the fishing port grew to become a major commercial port and a strongly defended fortress. The fortifications eventually surrounded the town. The walls were constructed mainly between 1720 and 1740. Over the years, control of the fortress moved back and forth between the French and the British. The last was in 1748 when the British forces took control. They decided they didn’t really need it and systematically destroyed all the fortifications. 

The fortress and town were partially reconstructed, in a project that started in 1961 and continued into the 1970s. Numerous buildings were rebuilt based on original blueprints and drawings of what the actual buildings looked like. A team was sent to France to search the archives for these documents. The original foundations were still there and were used for the reconstruction.

 

Today it is a living museum with live reenactments taking place. It was rebuilt as it was in 1744 at the height of activity. It is a Fortress not a Fort. The difference being it wasn’t just a military installation (fort) but had a significant population of civilians.

 

We enjoyed commentary from a house servant who served us hot chocolate (as it would have been prepared in that day) and explained real life in 1744. We went on to the garrison grounds where a soldier talked to us about what real life was like for the soldiers (pretty gruesome) and then gave us a demonstration of loading a musket and firing it.

The garrison area. The berm was protection from cannon balls.

Giving us the low down on life in 1744 as a soldier. Not pretty.

Preparing to fire

Kaboom!

In the warehouse. Barrels with wood rings - dry goods.
Barrels with metal rings - wet goods.

Foundation of one of the original buildings.

We wandered around for a while on our own before the bus returned to pick us up and take us back to the tender.

 

Our local guide explained that in 2022, Hurricane Fiona hit Nova Scotia with 100 mph winds and did significant damage to the landscape. Thankfully, every building remained, and no one was hurt.

 

Back on the ship, we are starting to get ready for our zodiac cruise this afternoon when the Expedition Leader came on the PA and said that, once again, the wind had picked up to a dangerous level for the water craft, so all afternoon events were cancelled. It did not impact the tenders, so guests were able to complete their shore-based excursions.

 

We are definitely at the end of the tourist season in this area, and you can certainly see why as we watch the weather.

We set sail during the Daily Briefing and it is a bit of a rock and roll. Before going to dinner, we decided to check out The Hide. It is a bar on Deck 1 that doesn't open until 8:30 pm, however it is open to passengers the rest of the time simply as a space to be and to watch the view from the windows. This space is at the bow of the ship and with being on Deck 1 is just above water level. It has large windows for viewing sea conditions.             Be sure to watch the video below.

Showing the spray as the ship cuts through swells.

Tomorrow is another try. It will be our last stop in Canada, and the last opportunity to put the water toys in the water. We will see how that plays out.