November 4 & 5, 2024 - Overland Tour to Machu Picchu - Part II

November 4 & 5, 2024 – Monday and Tuesday         Days 40 & 41 of this journey 

Overland Tour to Machu Picchu – Part II 

Monday – November 4, 2024 

Gerardo picks us up at 8:00 am. We drive through Cusco to the train station for the Hiram Bingham train. Hiram Bingham is who re-discovered Machu Picchu in the early 1900s. The train is in the style of the Orient Express and 1920’s décor. There are two dining cars, and a bar car with open air observation platform at the back. 

We were welcomed to the train station and escorted to comfortable chairs to wait and were offered juice or juice and champagne. Shortly before departure time, we are escorted to our tables in the dining car. It is quite elegant. A small troupe of performers give us a show surrounding the Inca’s use of the coca leaf and what it meant in their society. Everyone in the crowd is given coca leaves and at the end of the performance, we place the leaves on a small fire as an offering.

Accompanying the performance, guitar, drums & Peruvian flute.

We reboard the train and slowly chug out of the station. Cusco is at 11,000 feet. Machu Picchu is around 8,000 feet. So our train descends through the rugged mountains that lie between the two. These are the newest mountains on the planet and are continuing to rise. They are quite dramatic. Much of the trip is along the Urubamba River as it flows down the Sacred Valley.

There is a point that the train needs to execute a maneuver to get to a lower track. The train stopped, a switch was thrown on the tracks, we backed down a spur, then another switch was thrown, and we proceeded forward again, having dropped to a lower track.

You can see the track below us that we need to be on.

A brunch was served around 11:00 am. The food was excellent and served family style. We had Pork Belly along with 3 side dishes, followed by desert. All were excellent. All of the staff are extremely professional, from those that greeted us as we arrived at the train station to those serving us on board.

Lovely 1920s decor. Polished wood and brass

Side dishes - Quinoa salad, potato salad, creamed corn

Pork belly. Excellent breads

Desert of fresh fruit and chocolate mousse.

We arrived in Aguas Calientes, a small town in the valley below Machu Picchu. After a bathroom break, we walked to the busses that are constantly running back and forth between Aguas Calientes and the entrance of Machu Picchu. Omar is waiting for us at the entrance gate for Machu Picchu. We need to show passports as well as our ticket to be granted entry. We will be exploring Circuit 3 today.

The open-air observation platform at the rear of the train

The following photos were all taken prior to getting to Aguas Calientes

At the beginning of the trip from Cusco, we were not in the Andes
Mountain range but a separate range. By Aguas Calientes, we were
in the Andes.

Off we go with Omar constantly pointing out items of interest and giving us the history as it is known today. A lot of the information has evolved as more and more is found and analyzed. In Quechua, (the language of the Quechua people) Inca means “king”, therefore, referring to the civilization as Incan really isn’t accurate. The Quechuan did not have a written language although there are cave paintings. Their history has been passed down through the spoken word. 

The site is jaw dropping. What is referred to as Incan architecture is phenomenal. The blocks of granite are cut so precisely. They also had running water. They cut water channels in rock and buried it. The spring they used is still running and you can see water running in some of the channels that have been exposed. Much of the terracing that you see was for agriculture. They had some very advanced agricultural techniques, including hybridization of a number of plants.

On top of that tall peak in the center is the Sun Gate
with temples and terraces.

Our intrepid group from Viking Octantis.
Our guide, Gerardo is on the right.

Temple of the Sun

How did anyone get any work done with these views.

I climbed these steps. Whew! Well worth it.

Just a few people visiting today. In high season, limited to
about 5500. In low season, 4500. Approximate.

It is believed these were used as mirrors for
astronomical observations. The depression would have
been lined with silver or gold.

In the big rock, there is a crack in the center.

In the crack were two chinchillas.

A comunal dining room.

Temple of the Condor. Huge rocks are the wings,
Head is below. See the collar?

A few years ago, the government introduced llamas to the site. They are not native to this area at all, but they have become quite effective at keeping the grass under control. The llamas wandered about among the visitors and weren’t bothered by the people at all. Our guide did comment that if the grass and vegetation was not kept under constant control, the site would be buried by the jungle again within about 3 months.

After our time at the site, we take a break and are treated to a snack and beverage. It was a bit like tapas. While we were enjoying our “tea”, there was a cloud burst, and it just poured for about 10 – 15 minutes. By the time we were done, the rain had stopped. We got back on a shuttle bus and headed down the mountain to pick up our return train. We are heading back to Cusco via a different train. About halfway to Cusco, we transferred to the van and drove for a couple of hours. We’re not sure if there was a purpose to the van ride. The road was extremely rough, and it was quite dark, so nothing to see. 

We were back at the hotel about 9:00 pm and dinner was scheduled. We weren’t particularly hungry and really wanted to get to bed, but had agreed to the appetizer. The appetizer was supposed to be quinoa ceviche. This had been mentioned several times and we were curious. What was served was chicken noodle soup. Not what we expected, but quite delicious and just the right amount of food.

 

Tuesday, November 5, 2024 

We slept much better last night. No headache like we had the first night, and we were able to get a couple more hours of sleep in as well. 

Most of this day will be travel. 

The included buffet breakfast at this hotel is quite nice and the coffee they serve is excellent. A short city tour was offered for early this morning, since we didn’t get to see much of anything on our first day due to the flight problems. Most of the group declined, but we indicated we’d like to do it. We are to be picked up at 7:00 am. 

Our luggage is ready to go and we leave it with the hotel staff. At 7:00 am, Omar is there, and we begin our tour across the street from our hotel. There are many cathedrals in this city and one of them is across the street. The foundations are Incan. The interior is lovely.

The cathedral across from our hotel.

Incan Temple of the Sun

The Cathedral sits on the Incan foundation of the
Temple of the Sun

The walls of our hotel.

The lobby of our hotel.

We then head to the Plaza de Armas. There is a basilica here as well as several other churches and public buildings. This is a very interesting city and deserves further exploration.

 

Not unusual to see these hats on women here.

This is Pachacuti - Machu Picchu was probably built by this
Incan ruler as a retreat.

The basilica

Wall on the left is Incan. Wall on the right more modern

Interesting balconies like this are everywhere

Cusco - climbing the hills

The trip to the airport was quick and a separate car with our luggage arrives with us. We get checked in, check a couple of bags and head to our gate. No delays on this flight. We are all getting tired after the last three days. It will be good to get home to our ship. 

We are supposed to have a scenic drive-around of Lima and lunch before returning to the ship. One of the couples really doesn’t want to do that. But we have to stay together as a group. The others in the group agree (some reluctantly) to terminate the tour and return to the ship. We are glad to be back aboard. 

In hindsight, the drive around could have been interesting. 

I bought my first souvenir of the trip. I bought a tee shirt with Machu Picchu and llamas on it. A group of vendors had set up shop right on the dock next to our ship.

 

An amazing trip. Lots of miles covered. We got tired of sitting. We got tired of waiting. But seeing and touching Machu Picchu for ourselves and not on the television, or the computer or in a book was wonderful.

 

November 2 & 3, 2024 - Sat & Sun - Overland Tour to Machu Picchu - Part I

November 2 & 3, 2024 – Saturday and Sunday        Days 38 & 39 of this journey 

Overland Tour to Machu Picchu – Part I 

Not long after we boarded, we decided to take advantage of an Overland Tour to Machu Picchu. It is something that we have always wanted to see, and this is likely our best opportunity to see it. It will be a very busy several days. There is a group of 8 passengers on this Overland Tour that is a combination of bus rides, air flights, train rides, and different hotels. 

Here goes: 

Saturday, November 2, 2024 

We are scheduled to leave the ship at noon in Manta Ecuador. Everybody has gathered as directed and we check ourselves off this ship. There is a guide (Victor) waiting for us along with a small tourist bus and separate driver. We are to drive south to the city of Guayaquil, Ecuador. We pick up an additional guide (Gerardo) right after leaving the port property. Victor is Ecuadoran and will be with us until we get to the airport in Guayaquil. Gerardo will be with us until we get back to the ship in Lima, Peru on Tuesday. 

Victor provides commentary during the drive to Guayaquil. It should take about 4 hours. Today is a huge holiday in Ecuador. It is Day of the Dead and the traffic is heavy as many many people are visiting their departed family members at cemeteries. The roads are also in poor condition and are very bumpy. For us, we feel like we are in Mexico. It looks the same, feels the same.

The port at Manta. The largest tuna fishing port on the west coast.

Manta is also known for their ship building. Here are several under way.

We arrive in Guayaquil and go to a hotel where we are scheduled to have an early dinner. The food was very good and included a glass of very nice local wine. We proceed to the airport, gather our belongings and go to check in. Most of our group is dealing only with carry-ons. We opted to check a single bag as did one other couple. For some reason, I had to provide proof that I was leaving the country. My ship ID card wasn’t sufficient. I couldn’t pull up any of the saved documents from Viking as I had no cell service. Finally, I found a copy of flight schedules, and that was accepted.

A little upsetting, more because of hassles with my phone, and neither guide had ever run across this question before. It just caught all of us off guard. 

Off we go to the gate. Having bottled water with us at security was not an issue, but for most, shoes had to come off and belts off, etc.  As always, it was a lot of hurry up and wait. Our flight is due to take off at 8:40 pm and land in Lima, Peru at 10:35 pm. We will then pick up luggage and be bussed to our hotel that is about an hour away from the airport. 

Remember, I said this was a major holiday? There is a large concert tonight along the way to the hotel. It has just let out as we get near, so traffic is really snarled.

(I forgot to mention that Lima, Peru is a city of approximately 11 Million people.) There is an auto accident that has the traffic down to one lane. We turn off this highway to head to our hotel and need to make a tight turn only to find the way blocked by another accident. We need to find another route and that adds about 20 more minutes. We get to the hotel well after midnight, 8 very tired people. 

The room is very nice. We had purchased a small bottle of limoncello at the duty-free shop at the Guayaquil airport, so we ordered some ice and had a small nightcap to help us get to sleep. It is close to 2:00 am Sunday before we get to bed. 

And . . . 

We’ve got to be up and ready to go by 7:15 am. 

Sunday, November 3, 2024 

The plan for today is to fly from Lima, Peru to Cusco, Peru. Cusco is at 11,000 feet elevation. The flight is just over an hour of airtime. We should arrive in Cusco around noon. Have lunch, then a city tour including Incan ruins. Then dinner at the hotel. 

Our flight takes off on time, even though we switched gates. We were waiting for boarding to begin when gate personnel approach and pretty much strong arm everyone in our group to check their luggage. Our guide, Gerardo, did his best, but the gate personnel weren’t having any of that. 

As we approach Cusco, it is a spectacular approach over the mountains and dropping into the city. Wait . . . we don’t land but make a quick assent. We feel the plane circling and trying again. Again, we do not land but ascend. Third time is the charm? Nope. We head back to Lima. The pilot comes on the PA and says the winds were too severe for a safe landing, and the flight has been cancelled. 

Now what? We get back to Lima and retrieve everybody’s luggage. Gerardo had sped off as soon as we were off the plane. We reconnect with him at the ticket counters. The place is mobbed, but we find a window sill that we can all sit on that keeps us together but out of the way. Eventually, Gerardo comes with the news that he has booked us flights that evening. Gerardo will go with 3 couples on the first flight, one couple will be on the next flight. We are the lucky couple on their own. 

Gerardo has made arrangements for a late lunch (approximately 4:00 pm) at a hotel at the airport. That fills up some of the waiting time, then we return to the airport to check in for our flights. The first group is about an hour ahead of us. Our flight leaves on time, and as soon as we are on the ground in Cusco, I text Gerardo that we have arrived. He responds saying they were only 20 minutes ahead of us and are waiting for us. 

We meet Omar, another local guide that will be with us at Machu, Picchu. He, also is a native of Cusco and is passionate about his city, and country and its history. The drive to the hotel is only about 15 minutes. We are staying in what was a palace at one time. The foundations for the building are Incan. Our accommodation is a 2-room suite and very nice. We decide to find the bar and run into one of the other couples. We enjoy a couple of drinks, then head for bed. 

Not quite the day we had planned, but at least we are in Cusco and we should be able to get to Machu Picchu tomorrow.

 

November 1, 2024 - Friday - Sea Day

November 1, 2024 – Friday                 Day 37 of this journey 

Sea Day – Crossing The Equator Ceremony 

This will be a short one. 

We are on our way to Manta, Ecuador. 

Something that is always celebrated on cruise ships is Crossing the Equator for the first time. There are many different approaches to this ceremony. The ceremony also seldom coincides with the exact time of the crossing. 

On this voyage, the celebration was at 11:00 a.m. and handled in the Aula (theater). We will actually cross the Equator around midnight. Various employees were selected to represent their departments on board the ship. They represented those staff members that had not previously crossed the equator. These people are known as Pollywogs. Neptune was summoned and called forth the Pollywogs to face charges and sentencing.

Neptune with his crown

Pollywogs being presented

Management always has a great deal of fun in making up charges against the Pollywogs. After the charges are read, the guests on board vote guilty or not guilty. Of course, the Pollywogs are always quite guilty. The sentencing involves each of the Pollywogs having to kiss a fish, they are given a shot of aquavit and are promoted to Shellbacks. Then any Pollywogs in the audience are invited to participate. They come up, kiss the fish, and get a shot of aquavit (Booze).

This is Ramya, one of our favorite bar tenders

We participated in a similar ceremony aboard the Viking Neptune on our World Cruise a couple of years ago, so we are already Shellbacks.

 Neptune seemed particularly unhappy today as the seas are quite angry.

 

 

October 31, 2024 - Panama City - Thursday

October 31, 2024 – Thursday              Day 36 of this journey 

Panama City – Happy Halloween! 

We started our day by putting on our Halloween tee-shirts and loading our bag of treats to hand out. Then headed up for breakfast and enjoyed passing out fun-size Snickers and Mars bars. The staff had installed a very inventive display to celebrate the holiday. They are so creative.

We are scheduled for a morning tour and need to be ready to go by 7:45 am. We are taking what is billed as a “Jungle Boat Ride”. When we were here in December of 2022 (at the beginning of that World Cruise), we took this same tour from Colon which is on the Atlantic side. We enjoyed it enough, we decided to do it again. 

We do need to be prepared, however, for rain. It is in the forecast as I mentioned yesterday. The young lady who is our guide begins her spiel and we learn that this really won’t be a “jungle” tour as this area is in a “rain forest”. They do have jungle, but it is on the border with Columbia. 

It takes about an hour or a little more to get to the resort where we will board our boats. They hold a maximum of 20 people, have a simple canopy, a captain, and a guide that will narrate for us and help us spot wildlife. Our guide for this portion is Luis, and we like him a lot more than the young lady we started with. Her dissertation seemed to be mostly a data dump with not much emotion or personal input. 

We leave the resort and as soon as we are out into Gatun Lake, our captain kicks up the speed and we head across the lake at pretty high speed. The rain is at a sprinkle, but with the high speed of the boat, we are all getting wet. It doesn’t take long to get to the area of the lake that is our destination for wildlife viewing. Once at our destination, we quickly find a small group of Tamarind monkeys. They are the smallest of the species that we will see today, and they are small. We will later see Capuchin monkeys (much more aggressive) and even catch a glimpse of Howler monkeys. We also saw egrets, herons, a macaw, iguanas, and other assorted birds.

Tamarind Monkey

The density of the rain forest

A Capuchin monkey on the tree

2 Capuchin monkeys

A bird - a Kite. There were lots of them

These black things on the trunk are bats.

Back at the ship and after lunch, Russ isn’t feeling very well, so we have a quiet afternoon and evening.

October 30, 2024 - Panama Canal - Wednesday

October 30, 2024 – Wednesday           Day 35 of this journey 

Panama Canal 

We awoke to only very gentle rocking. Yea! We are holding our place waiting for permission to enter the Canal. About 7:00 am, we started moving and crept into the harbor as we headed for the Gatun Locks. Before getting to the locks, we sail under the Atlantic Bridge. Off to our right, the clouds are hanging in the hills and we can also see an old wreck.

Approaching the Atlantic Bridge

Clouds hanging in the hills

This one didn't make it.

Looking back at the Atlantic Bridge

We have three sets of locks to go through today. The Gatun Locks lifting us from the Caribbean/Atlantic into Gatun Lake (85’) via three chambers. We then sail very slowly through Gatun Lake until we get to the Pedro Miguel Locks. Before getting to the Pedro Miguel Locks, we transit the Culebra Cut. This is a 7 ¾ mile cut through a mountain ridge and the Continental Divide. We sail under the Centennial Bridge which matches the Atlantic Bridge before getting to the locks. Here, there is only one chamber, and we drop 35’. In about 45 minutes we are at the Miraflores locks. There are two chambers here and we’ll drop the rest of the way to the level of the Pacific Ocean.

Approaching the first lock. The people on the left had spotted
wildlife on shore.

Hooking up to the locomotives that will pull us through the locks.
These are cog wheel locomotives and quite expensive these days.

Water dumping out of the opposite lock to lower the tanker.

Moving from one lock to the next

In Gatun Lake, we pass many huge container ships. I calculated
a couple thousand containers on this ship. 

Just before Pedro Miguel Lock, lots of bystanders watching.
There were even food vendors set up.

While we were waiting to get into the Pedro Miguel Locks, the wind came up and a very dark cloud loomed overhead. We started seeing lightning bolts and heard huge thunderclaps. It began to pour. It is so nice that we have a very cozy ship to keep us dry. 

Rain is in the forecast for us over the next several days, everywhere we’ll be. Should make for an interesting time. But we are in a warm climate, and even the rain is warm. We shall see. 

As we docked at the cruise port for Panama City, we were just across the dock from the Viking Mars. Our sister ship. Many of the staff on the Octantis know staff on the Mars and are looking forward to connecting with them (although briefly as Mars sails again in the morning).

The rain pouring down. The tugs were with us anytime we were
approaching a lock, or through the narrower sections.

Panama City

Viking Mars

When we return from dinner, we have a certificate for having sailed through the Panama Canal.