December 7, 2024 - Saturday - Home

December 7, 2024 – Saturday                       Day 73 of this journey 

Home 

We both were able to get several hours of sleep on the flight to Dallas/Fort Worth. 

This time a wheelchair was waiting, and we headed to the baggage carousel. After passport control, the young man pushing Russ’ wheelchair helped me round up our baggage which was a huge help. Next came TSA. After that a transport cart was waiting. We hopped on that and were taken to our gate. 

After take-off, the pilot advised that the first part of the flight would be very bumpy, so in-flight service would be delayed. And it was bumpy, finally smoothing out and an on-time arrival into Tucson. Our ride was waiting, and we got home about 1:00 pm. 

What an amazing trip. We enjoyed every bit of it. Even the Drake Passage – twice. For now, we don’t have travel plans other than to our Mazatlan home.

I don't think we will ever get tired of our view of the Catalina Mountains

And our very healthy Saguaro Cactus

And a very happy Bougainvillea

 

December 6, 2024 - Friday - Buenos Aires

December 6, 2024 – Friday                           Day 72 of this journey 

Buenos Aires, Argentina 

We were up fairly early, took showers and headed for breakfast. We aren’t sure what we are going to do today as our ride to the airport doesn’t leave the hotel until 6:00 pm. 

We did a little re-packing to try to lighten the backpacks and carry ons. Then killed time in the room before calling for a bell hop to help with the luggage. It was raining a bit with quite a breeze. The weather app says the rain will stop mid-morning. We want to utilize the Hop On Hop Off (HOHO) bus to see some of Buenos Aires so are hopeful the weather app is right. A fellow passenger told us that they had used the HOHO on their way to Ushuaia and that it was a fairly comprehensive tour of the city. 

We chatted with the Concierge about things to do and see. He mapped out quite a walking tour that looked like a lot more than what we had the energy for. He also advised us that the HOHO picked up right across the street and that they were usually there about 10:30 am. 

By 10:00 am the rain had stopped, and the sun was coming out. We waited at the pickup point and right on time, the bus came down the street and right on by us. He obviously didn’t see us, but somebody on board did, because just a few minutes later, the bus was back and pulling over for us. We went up top and found lots of seats. The sun feels really good. In fact, we both got a little bit of a sunburn. 

The tour took about 3 hours with 24 stops along the way. The commentary was very good and shared a lot of history. The city has a very European feel with lots of parks and monuments. It is spring here with the trees leafed out in that green that seems to have an inner light.

There is a small airport right in town that is a favorite spot for locals to park and watch the air traffic. We remember doing just that at a Naval Air Station near where we grew up.

There are many soccer teams in Buenos Aires. We drove past two stadiums. Across the street from one were souvenir stores with all the paraphernalia with team logos.

The equestrian scene is extremely important

Interesting architecture

Tree growing through a fence

Casa Rosada - Think "Evita"

Soccer memorabilia

We found the mannequin holding up the flagpole humorous

About 1:30 pm, we were back at the hotel. We found seats in the bar area and ordered some lunch. The Hilton is a popular place for people with flights to catch. The area where we left our luggage had hundreds of bags and there were lots of people just hanging out until they could head to the airport. After our lunch we sat and waited for our turn to head to the airport. As with the previous evening, traffic was a mess, and it took over an hour to get to the airport. We checked in and the employee at the counter advised us of where the VIP lounge was located. 

I forgot to ask about the wheelchair for Russ and headed to the gate. The line up at Security was ridiculous, but we eventually cleared that. Next came passport control. There we got in the line for people needing assistance, but neither of our passports would read. We were assured it was not a problem with the passport, but a problem with their system. Finally, they were able to process both of us and we headed for the VIP lounge. 

We had a couple of drinks and some snacks, then it was time to head to the gate. I had asked one of the attendants if there was any way to get a wheelchair to the gate. Russ was getting antsy when the wheelchair showed up. Yea! And it was quite a walk to the gate, so it was a good thing. 

The flight was a little late taking off, but we had plenty of layover time in Dallas/Fort Worth. After dinner, we both settled in to get some sleep.

What an adventure

 

December 5, 2024 - Thursday - Disembarkation Day

December 5, 2024 – Thursday                       Day 71 of this journey 

Disembarkation Day and Transfer to Buenos Aires 

It had snowed overnight so the mountains surrounding Ushuaia have that beautiful softness of new snow

Good Morning

Lots of expedition ships at dock. The season has begun.

In the distance - the Andes

This will be a day of hurry up and wait and everything will seem like it is taking forever. We must be out of our room by 8:00 am. Viking has a system of dividing all departing passengers into groups depending on flight times or other travel arrangements. We were in Group Tan 2. 

At about 9:45 am, our group was called. Everyone was waiting in the Living Room on Deck 5. We trooped down to Deck 1 and scanned our identity cards one final time. We boarded the bus labeled with the Tan 2 placard and were driven about ½ mile to the “hospitality lounge”. It was a local bar, but at least had lots of windows. But when we got there pretty much every seat in the house was occupied.

A happy thing happened. A woodworker pushing his cart, stopped outside the building. I bought our 2nd souvenir of the trip. A small penguin with different kinds of wood and bone inserts. It was better quality work than I had seen the entire trip. 

Gradually, as earlier groups left to go to the airport, the seating was better. They did have snacks and coffee, so we got a bite to eat. We are scheduled to leave for the airport at 11:45 am for a 2:30 pm flight. The flight time is almost 4 hours between Ushuaia and Buenos Aires. We have no idea if the flight includes any food. 

Not surprisingly, there were delays in flights, so things got pushed back. Not to worry, it is a charter flight, so they aren’t going to leave without us. We are one of the later groups to go, but when our turn comes, we are pleased to at least be moving. 

It is a short ride to the airport. We were given our boarding passes once we were enroute to the airport. We are in Row 30. At least we are close to the bathroom. It is a standard 3 on each side seat schematic. An added bonus for us is that we don’t have to share with a third person. We’ve got three seats. A friend stopped by and said the seating at the front of the plane was solid, but in the back half, seating was more scattered. 

Views of the Andes and Ushuaia during take-off were great. Once in a while, there were breaks in the clouds and I could see the coast of Argentina. And it turned out that there was food on the flight. A can of champagne and a nut mixture. Champagne in a can? And it wasn’t all that cold, but actually tasted fairly good. A little later they brought sandwiches around. We shared one of the sandwiches and saved the other one for later.

Looking down on Ushuaia

 

Snack Time

The coast of Argentina

Approaching Buenos Aires

It was rather a madhouse in the luggage claim area, but we found all of our luggage, then found the group that would be overnighting at the Hilton. It is usually about 45 minutes from the international airport to the Hilton, but traffic was bad so it took closer to an hour and a half. 

We finally got checked in and then spoke to the Viking Rep at the hotel about transportation back to the airport the next day. We were pleased to learn that our pick-up time is 6:00 pm, so we have time to do a little exploring. The room is very nice. 

We shared the 2^nd sandwich, then headed down to the bar. Ran into a couple of other Viking people at the bar, sat and chatted with them for a while and had a vodka on ice. Very nice bartenders. 

Time for bed.

 

December 4, 2024 - Wednesday - Sailing the Cape Again

December 4, 2024 – Wednesday                             Day 70 of this journey 

Scenic Sailing Cape Horn - Again 

We are still rocking and rolling this morning, but we know the day will end with us being at a dock. 

Around 8:00 am (as predicted by the Captain – imagine that) we are passing Cape Horn. In reality, what the Captain has done is swing west enough that we were in the Pacific Ocean. Then turned back east so that we could cross the line between the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans right as we were coming around Cape Horn. 

We’ve now done that twice, but for all those passengers that got on in Ushuaia this is their first opportunity to see Cape Horn and pass between the two oceans. We all get a Certificate documenting the fact. 

Now we head for the Beagle Channel. We’ll pick up an Argentinian Pilot there and should be docked about 7:00 pm. 

Tonight is a special night for “The 38”. The Food and Beverage Manager has blocked off all of Manfredi’s for the evening and we will be meeting as a group to have dinner, say some goodbyes, but it also gives us an opportunity to thank those special waiters, cooks, line staff, senior management, that have been so instrumental in making this a voyage of a lifetime. 

We were offered cocktails as we entered Manfredi’s, then found a place to sit. A few remarks were made before the meal was served. Food was great (no surprise). Cream of Pumpkin soup; Prosciutto & Melon; Cloudberry Granite; Choice of Surf & Turf (Russ) or Seared Halibut (Jan); and the finale was an individual Baked Alaska with a penguin on the side out of fondant. 

The Captain, our Expedition Leader, and the Staff Captain

The Senior Team - Hotel Manager in the middle

Cloudberry Granite

Seared Halibut

Surf & Turf

The Amazing Pastry Chef made about 45 of these

The Amazing Pastry Chef and Chef Wayan who wowed us frequently.

The bags we plan on checking must be in the hall, properly tagged, by 10:00 pm. We won’t see the bags again until we claim them in Buenos Aires. 

What an absolutely amazing trip. And it’s not quite over. We added a night in Buenos Aires.

 

December 3, 2024 - Tuesday - Drake Passage Again

December 3, 2024 – Tuesday                        Day 69 of this journey 

Sail the Drake Passage, Again 

The Drake is definitely rock and roll. 

Today, we begin to pack our bags. It is always with mixed feelings. We are ready to go home because it is time, but we would have been very happy exploring more of the Last Continent, the White Continent. 

Since packing bags means being on your feet and continually moving around the cabin as you gather things, it’s exhausting when the ship is constantly throwing you off balance. I can’t imagine what the Drake Shake must be like. 

The first thing we had to do this morning was to place our boots and our waterproof pants outside our cabin door. The staff will be gathering them between 7:00 am and 10:00 am. There are numerous activities that are offered, but we’ve done almost all of them and don’t find a need to attend.

 

By the end of the day we have a good start on the packing and at 4:00 pm we were invited to the Aula as one of “The 38” to have a group photo taken. We were asked to wear our red jackets and our Panama Hats. We don’t have Panama Hats because that happened during our overland excursion to Machu Picchu. We hope to get a copy of the picture.

From the photo shoot, we went up to the Explorer’s Lounge to have a cocktail. Russ had his usual and I had an espresso martini. Very good! From there we went down to the Aula as the Captain was having his farewell reception. The Captain is quite the character and reviewed the voyage with humorous and serious photos. Then played a video montage that we wish we could have a copy of. (We asked, the answer was "no" due to all the photos of passengers – so privacy issues.) 

The reception closed with Johnny (entertainment manager) singing the Beatles song “You get by with a little help from your friends” and every available staff member streaming into the Aula and up the two staircases. We knew so many of these wonderful people. They’ve been taking great care of us for the last 10 weeks.

Our Captain and Johnny

 

December 2, 2024 - Monday - Livingston Island

December 2, 2024 – Monday                          Day 68 of this journey 

Explore Antarctica – Day 7 – Livingston Island 

This is our last day in Antarctica. We are parked off Livingston Island at Elephant Point. By saying that we are parked, that is a pretty apt description. We are using something called Dynamic Positioning (DP). Most watercraft sailing in Antarctica are not allowed to drop an anchor. DP utilizes GPS and once it is engaged, the thrusters automatically engage to maintain our position at an exact location. 

Livingston Island is part of the South Shetland Islands north of the Antarctic Peninsula. This is called Elephant Point because there is quite a colony of Elephant Seals here and we are planning a landing in the middle of that colony.

Livingston Island, Elephant Point, South Shetland Islands

For the morning, we will take our last SOB ride. It is fairly clear, but cold out there. We bundle up in our various layers and report to the meeting area. The swells aren’t as bad as yesterday, so we are able to board the SOB from the hangar. That means we aren’t competing for space with the zodiacs. 

As soon as everyone is aboard, the SOB takes off at high speed. I’m not sure if we were at maximum speed (40 mph) or not, but he was really flying. We stay at that pace for 15 minutes when we arrive at Deception Island. There are a few Elephant Seals that are just light brown spots on the beach. There are a few Gentoo penguins as well. And for the first time since leaving Ushuaia, we see green. We are far enough north that plants are able to survive here.

Those light brown dots are elephant seals

Green! 

We can’t get too close to shore as this bay is too shallow and rocky. We hang around for about 10 minutes, then we spend another 15 minutes getting back to the ship. I don’t remember ever being so cold. I have no idea what the wind chill factor was but WOW! We were so glad to get back to the ship and warm up. 

Moving around the ship, we chatted with a few folks that had done the landing in the morning. Everyone was really impressed. So, we’ve got something to look forward to.

The view of nearby land

Our afternoon departure was 3:00 pm. We suit up with all the layers one more time. We’ll be turning in our boots and waterproof pants after this excursion. The zodiac heads toward shore at a quick pace, then slowly approaches the beach. The driver hops out of the zodiac to push it the rest of the way. And a couple of Team members come out into the water to help. One by one, we swing our legs over the side of the zodiac and drop into the water. Its only about 6-8 inches deep and a Team member escorts each guest to shore. The Team has laid out a path that we can walk along for viewing the seals. It isn’t far, is relatively level even if it is a little muddy. Trekking poles were handed out if you wanted one.

Approaching the beach and waiting for the zodiac
already there to leave

The unloading process

The seals are everywhere. This year’s pups are easy to spot as they are a lighter color. But they are at least 6 feet long. Others look huge to us, but we learn that all of these are no more than teenagers, and these are also all males. We do not see any older males with the proboscis that gives them their name. We’ve been told that the adult males can reach 19’ in length and weigh as much as 8,800 pounds. So cool!

Elephant seals everywhere

Pups

Just lounging around

A couple of boys decided they needed to practice fighting
Watch the video below

 

Time to go. The Team pushes and pulls the loaded zodiacs into deeper water

Very interesting landscape

We return to the beach to wait for our return ride to the ship. We are directed to wash as much of the mud off our boots as we can. There is a bucket of long handled brushes that make it easy. Again, we are assisted in getting back onto the zodiac and Team members push the loaded zodiac out into the water until it is deep enough to engage the propeller. 

On our way back, we spot what looks like a stranded zodiac. We know what’s going on, but the rest of the people on our zodiac do not. Every segment, on the last day that the toys can be in the water, the Beverage team send glasses and champagne out for every returning zodiac. Everybody gets a glass of champagne (or orange juice) to toast with before getting back on board.

Tonight, we will be heading back into the Drake Passage. The forecast looks like it will be very similar to our trip south. A lot of rock and roll, but that is considered a “good” passage.

A final look at Antarctica. What a wonderful experience